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Ambleside: Day 5 - It didn't go quite as planned..

Friday, 10th January 2020

Well today I was planning on doing Red Screes via High Sweden Bridge but I woke up with a horrible tight chest and snuffly sneezy sniffles.  I felt rubbish, hot/cold/shivery/sweaty (nice!).

So I decided to take it easy and tidy the little apartment up and get packed away ready for tomorrow's drive home.

I was gutted... Look At That Weather:


A near-on perfect day for a walk up a mountain.

Gutted.  This happens to me quite a bit - having a week off work and coming down with some lurgy or other.  I'm sure it's nature's way of telling me to bloody-well relax and unwind!

All in all though, a lovely week away and it's got me thinking about doing something similar (renting somewhere for a week) an a few months' time - when hopefully the weather will be a bit better!

I will be back...


Ambleside: Day 4 - Shopping and Relax Day

Thursday, 9th January 2020

As predicted, my legs ache today - not unpleasantly - that kind of ache that tells you your muscles got a workout - so a lazy day it is. Happily, my tendon seems to be causing me no problems

Looking out of the window, I was greeted with patchy sunshine over Todd Crag and chums and possibly a dusting of snow on a higher, more distant fell I can just see.  It did look rather a fine day to be out on the hills but I knew I'd be over-facing myself if I did anything too adventurous and hoped that tomorrow's weather would be as kind.

Today though, I decided to hit the outdoor shops and their January sales with my Christmas and Birthday money.

First off though I did a little mooch around Rothay Park and discovered a gate leading .... somewhere.  I didn't have the right kind of shoes on for the muddy track I could see but I will go and explore it on my last day after I leave but before I have to hand my parking permit back!

After working up a small appetite I did my bit for local tourism and had lunch in Daisy's cafe near the market cross.  I had a very nice red pepper and sweet potato soup with a toasted cheese and onion sarnie, washed down with a decent cuppa.  Highly recommended.

Then, mmmmm, gear-porn.  So today, I have mostly been buying...

- a new windshirt.  Paid a little more than I would normally consider paying for what is essentially umbrella material shaped into a jacket but it's exactly what I was looking for and not in a luminous "lets be visible from 10 miles away" colour.

- some new insoles.  Found a Meindl stockist and had to pop in to see if they had any of my old favourite shoes.  The really helpful lady said they didn't and they believed they were no longer manufactured (as I thought) but I did spot some replacement insoles for my current Meindls, not that there's anything wrong with my existing ones yet but I have found a good way of relieving fatigued tooties on the hill is change the insoles - it's like putting on a new pair of shoes!

- a waterproof phone case.  I finally found one that fits my GPS phone properly instead of my current naff ziploc thing that is so crumpled and creased I can hardly see the screen anyway!

- some new walking socks.  You can never have too many pairs of these!

- a headtorch.  A replacement for my broken one. At long last!

I didn't find a suitable waterproof "shell" for a price I was willing to pay.  I have to confess, I'm struggling to get my head around how they reach these price points, even in the sales, for what is essentially a lined pacamac with a non-rustling outer and some zips under your armpits.  I can't imagine they would be any more breathable than my current boil in the bag thing and I'm not willing to pay that sort of money to find out if I'm right.  Having said that, my new winter duvet jacket is waterproof and not boil in the bag but it is massively insulated and only good for harsh wind / wintry conditions / keeping you warm.  Plus the jury's out on whether I want a muted colour (as my new winter duvet is) or a highly visible colour seeing as the only time I would be wearing it would be in bad weather.  It's been good though to get in the shops and actually see and feel and try on the gear in the flesh that I normally only hear people talking about or read about on t'internet.

Other non-walking related stuff I bought was a mug emblazoned with "I nearly climbed a mountain".  Quite appropriate, well I thought so anyway.  And some Agate for a stained glass wall art creation I've got in mind.

I got my packup made for tomorrow and it's an early night tonight - I want to be up early to make the most of the daylight.... and if the weather's good I have a cunning plan for my new-found hill legs ...

Ambleside: Day 3 - Loughrigg Fell (7.4 miles)

Wednesday, 8th January 2020

Today seemed to have the best of the weather so far this week.  I could finally see the fells clear of any cloud.  There was even patches of blue sky.

With this in mind I decided Loughrigg was today's walk.

I wanted to see Rydal Cave and avoid coming down the Loughrigg steps so I planned on doing the walk anti-clockwise.

After making my packup I decided not to wear my new winter duvet as it really is too mild for that yet.  So I shoved my waterproof shell in my rucksack and put on my insulated "puffa" style jacket and headed out of the door.

It's great this having fab walks straight from the door.

I pretty much retraced my steps from yesterday's return route, through Rothay Park and over the little bridge.  Had I been doing the walk clockwise I'd have headed up the steep tarmacked road off to the left a few yards ahead but instead I continued along the Under Loughrigg Road (a really quiet lane) to Pelter Bridge where I took a left turn to skirt round the flanks of Lanty Scar.  It was an easy enough, pleasant lane/track so far, heading gently uphill with occasional views of Rydal Water.

Easy walking on the path from Pelter Bridge

Looking back at Pelter Bridge
Rydal Water
The track roughened up a bit as it turned into a stoney what I call a "farm track" as it undulated over the lumps and bumps towards my first objective of the day.  Rydal Cave.  Marked on the map as "Quarries (dis)" I reached the first one (not realising there are two) and thought well that doesn't look like I was expecting and how the hell do you get up to it?  Someone popped out of the cave and shimmied down the 10 feet of smooth rock face.  "Oh, that's how" I thought, quickly followed by "I won't be doing that then".

Not the main cave
I meandered on and spotted the real thing.  Instantly recognisable from photographs.  That's better!  After the obligatory "outside looking in" photograph I tiptoed over the stepping stones (superbly grippy rock) and had a bit of a poke around the bits of the cave that wasn't flooded.  I didn't spot any goldfish or tadpoles which I've heard said can be found in here.

There was another couple in the cave and I kept out of the way of their arty-farty photography gadgets but, jeez, will you hurry up!  Eventually they started to move on and I stood patiently waiting for them to get beyond the stepping stones, except they decided to stand and do a selfie-snog photograph in front of the cave.  To be honest, it looked a really nice, romantic moment but GET OUT OF MY PICTURE.

Rydal Cave
outside, looking in

Rydal Cave
inside, looking out

Little Robin flitting around the cave
I continued along the path, choosing the higher path when any options came along and soon I was turning the corner onto Loughrigg Terrace with fantastic views over Grasmere (lake).

Grasmere
I'm sure a few Yuppie Yachts bobbing around on there would improve that vista no end (joking).

Eventually I got to the sharp left turn up the hill and "the Loughrigg Steps".  Urrrgh.  Can't say I was looking forward to this bit all that much but if I wanted to tap the trig on Loughrigg then they were a necessary evil.

Loughrigg Steps
To be honest, they start off okay, lull you into a false sense of security for a couple of hundred meters, then .... well then, there's obviously been some erosion and landslips resulting in some Steps For Giants.  My legs were starting to feel the burn!  I may have stopped a couple of times to admire the scenery, give way to folks coming down and generally "enjoy" the experience.  All I'll say is, there are many false summits before you reach a sort of squishy col and the trig comes into view.... up yet more steps!

Trig on Loughrigg
I finally make it and touched the trig.

Loughrigg - bagged!


Really narked because I can't seem to upload the vid the right way up!

My camera was starting to play up again, this time telling me my memory card was full so I did my summit pano-video using my GPS phone's camera.  It was then I spotted some weather heading in from the north and hoped it wouldn't reach me too soon.  It was pretty blustery up here anyway so I dropped down off the top to find a sheltered spot for my lunch.

Although, the sun had vanished behind those ominous looking clouds and I became more concerned about getting off the hill "proper" so I delayed my lunch stop... for quite a while as it happens - as I meandered up and down and round some of the lumps and bumps that make up Loughrigg.  This would be a smashing little fell to lose yourself on.

Heading to the trees in the mid-ground
towards Ambleside
Eventually I reached the bridleway and decided to stop and feed - I was famished by now - about 5 miles without a snack stop?  What's all that about?  I sat and inhaled my cheese and sarnie spread wrap and an apple and it was then I discovered I'd forgotten to pack my mug for my fluffy coffee.  Miffed, I quaffed a bit more water.  A poor substitute I have to say.

At one point I spotted a deer and stopped to take a photo.  Only to be caught up by a group of about 30 walkers.  I asked if they would mind waiting a minute whilst I took a photo of the deer....their response/? "oh dear (laughter)" ... and they carried on walking.  Needless to say, the deer spooked.  Inconsiderate Morons.

Group of 30 morons
Once on the bridleway it was an easy enough meander down towards the bridge over the River Rothay and on through Rothay Park again.

I picked up my evening meal and a gooey bun on the way back to my accommodation.  I could get used to this.

I could feel my legs had been given a good workout by now and I was glad to have a proper sit down.  To be fair, after nearly 8 miles with only one 10 minute snack stop, I'm not surprised.

Yet again, a good walk, shower, food, glass of wine and bed..... perfect day.

And, yet again, my tendon didn't really give me any gyp.  A little twinge on the way up the steps but no swelling or aching on the night.

The forecast's grim for tomorrow so I might have a day spending money in the gear shops!



Ambleside: Day 2 - Lily Tarn (3.8 miles)

Tuesday, 7th January 2020

I'd set my alarm as if I was getting up for work and padded around in the darkness (after a couple of snooze buttons!).  Cuppa, shower and a bit of breakfast and I set about making some packup.

Once it was properly daylight I opened the curtains/blinds to be greeted with a fine view of Todd Crag buried under cloud and heavy rain.  Loughrigg, which should be visible behind it, was nowhere to be seen:


I had a little nosey through the other walk options I had planned and decided on doing none of those.  It was absolutely lashing it down outside and I toyed with the idea of having my "rest" day today (which actually meant spending my Christmas and birthday money in the all the outdoor gear shops).but I wanted to be "out".  On the hills, even a little hill would do.

So I plumped for a "gear test" walk up Todd Crag to Lily Tarn to test out my new replacement for my ancient winter duvet jacket and set off once the rain had eased off.

After a fairly (nay, immensely) boring plod along the main A593 road to Clappersgate, I finally took a right turn at Brathay Farm onto the fellside (hooooraaaahhhh).  So far, although mega overcast and low cloud, it had stopped raining - it was what I call "fat mist" where it feels like walking through cobwebs on your face instead of splodges of raindrops.  The path meandered upwards towards Nanny Brow - some short and steep rocky bits in places but never scary for a 'fraidy-cat like me.  Instead of entering Fishgarths Wood I took a sharp right in the general direction of "up" - through and up and over lots of lumpy, bumpy craggy bits - I was enjoying this fell and it was a shame the weather was ....well it wasn't improving... that's for sure.

Path meandering to Nanny Brow

Beckside path

Arty-farty pic

Bench with a view

...and on a nice day ... what a lovely view
Looking over Windermere
 I eventually got to a wall which, If my map reading was any good, I should cross and happen upon Lily Tarn.  Whilst I stood pondering over my map a chap and his dog appeared out of the mizzle and commented that he was really surprised to see anyone else out on the hills on a day like this.

After a bit of a natter he pointed me in a slightly different direction for a (what he considered to be) a nicer approach with a big reveal sort of theme.  "You see those sheep over there...oh, when the cloud goes, you'll see some sheep over there" he said.  "Head towards them, up that little pass, turn left round the oak tree and follow the path uphill - you'll get to a little tarn before Lily Tarn but carry on and you'll get there".

Great.  Roaming an unfamiliar multi-lumpy fell in the (now) mega-clag sounds SO appealing.  And off I set!  He was right.  I blundered around for a bit in the general direction he'd pointed me - the sheep had moved by now so don't use those to navigate by, but there it was the little rocky tarn, round the tree and up the hill and, taaa-daaaaa, Lily Tarn appeared through the mist as I crested the hill.  Then it disappeared momentarily into the mist and I headed for the bench the chap mentioned with some sort of idea of doing a self-timer thingy on my camera to get a pic of me sat on it admiring "atmospheric" Lily Tarn.  Camera wasn't right thrilled at being faced head on into the rain and had one of its Alzheimers Moments as it rapid-cycled through, pano, video, face recognition, landscape and macro functions. So I sacked that idea off and took a pic of the water beading up on my new jacket instead.

Cresting the brow
Lily Tarn

"Atmospheric" Lily Tarn from the bench

... new jacket, beading up nicely
Gear test -jacket waterproofabilityness - passed.

The chap had also mentioned that the weather was set to get worse from about 2pm (like it wasn't already utterly grotty) with high winds and torrential rain.  To be honest, the weather so far was better than I expected it to be (and that's saying something) which is why I'd chosen a short walk with lots of visual interest close up rather than being disappointed at not getting far-reaching views from a lofty clag-bothered summit.

Oddly though, it really wasn't cold - I would hesitate to say it was almost balmy and my new jacket really was overkill in the insulation category on this particular walk.

Anyhow, given the fact that the lumps and bumps and crags kept dipping in and out of visibility I decided to take a bearing from Lily Tarn to Miller Brow just in case (of what, I don't know) and headed off downhill in the general direction of North East.  I'd had a quick "word" with myself previous to this, insofar as Lily Tarn is on a TINY little fell and I think it would be really difficult to actually get lost on it, even if I didn't know exactly where I was.  It was the first time I've had to use my compass "in anger" to walk off a hill.

I bumped into a young couple doing their last little walk before a long drive home and they too said they'd rather be "out here in this" than spending their last day in their accommodation just because it was raining.

Lovely little waterfall
Pretty quickly actually, I reached Miller Brow and the junction of paths at Brow Head Farm and I decided not to walk past the houses and chose instead to head north through the woodland to join the road further up.  And I am SOOOOO glad I did.  What a lovely little woodland. Yes, even in the rain.

Lovely little woodland
I spent a few moments here breathing in the wonderful, earthy smell of decaying autumn, the metallic taste/smell of the rain, and listening to a couple of birds chirruping away.  A really, relaxing, peaceful moment.

Once I reached the road I took a right turn for a quite pleasant mooch along the River Rothay, keeping my eye out for a cattle grid and bridge over the river into Rothay Park.

Heron on the marshy ground between the road
and the River Rothay
Bridge from the road into Rothay Park
The water was thundering down the little waterfall/weir in Rothay Park and I suddenly realised I've been here before, with Peter, the day after the Elterwater meet - we did a linear walk from ODG to Ambleside.  Funny how things trigger the memory. Looking back through "the archives" the Elterwater meet was 5 years ago!  I can't believe that!  It was then that I decided I needed to return to Ambleside for more walking in the area.  Five years ago!

Little waterfall thundering through Rothay Park
I probably should have gone the "tourist route" through Rothay Park but I didn't and came out somewhere near the little Police and Fire Station on the A591.

Fire Station
Cumbria Fire & Rescue Service
Fire stations should be red, not green!... just sayin'

From there it was a very short walk back to my accommodation but I did pop into a cake shop on my way and picked up a fruit scone to have with my cuppa - which I was looking forward to seeing as I'd not really stopped for "lunch" out on my walk.

Bridge House
The lovely, quirky Bridge House.  I could live there.

So there we are.  A perfect little "first" walk of my hols me thinks.  I hadn't over-taxed my legs so they'd be good to go tomorrow.  My tendon only gave me a slight twinge in Rothay Park and a short rest to watch the river seemed to cure.  Pleased with that really considering this is the first hilly thing it's had to deal with for a good while!

And the Gear Test?  Yes, I think this jacket will be a worthy replacement.  It's waterproof, breathable and by 'eck it's warm! It has all the features my old jacket has and my only gripe would be that it doesn't have elasticated wrists so I can't push it up my arms to vent.







Ambleside: Day 1 - Getting there and settling in

Monday, 6th January 2020

I was looking forward to my week off work - now everyone was back and depressed after Christmas and I was sickeningly cheerful with the anticipation of a week off I'd been keeping a beady eye on the forecast for Ambleside.... and wasn't impressed.  Perhaps my punishment for banging on and on about having a week off to go walking in the Lakes.

On Monday morning I contacted the place where I was to pick the keys and parking permit up from to double check a few things and asked them what the weather was like there.  "Raining heavily and set in for the day" was the answer.  Great!

My original plan was to do Orrest Head as a "walk on the way" but with the weather doing what it was doing I reckoned I'd get no views so decided to set off a little later and just pick my keys/permit up and head straight to my accommodation and hope that I could at least get a short walk in somewhere before darkness.

It seemed to stop raining just as darkness fell - typical!  So I spent the evening just settling in and getting provisions in for the week.  Luckily there's a Tesco Express a few doors down from my accommodation.  There followed an evening of cooking my meal and trying to figure out if there was any wifi available as TripAdvisor reviews seemed to say it was a bit sketchy.  I gave up in the end and decided to have a digital detox.

Tuesday's forecast wasn't looking fantastic either.  More heavy rain and gale force winds - deep joy!

Pots washed, stuff unpacked, showered and bed.  I always struggle to get to sleep the first night in a strange bed and, true to form, sleep was a long time coming.

Some pics of my accommodation for the week:







A nice little home from home (but with better views out of the window).